August 2023 · Nelson Lakes

Cotterell Peak Alp 1 Trip — Travers Valley

Cotterell Peak Alp 1 Trip — Travers Valley

NZAC Wellington Alp 1 trip to the Travers Valley, 25–27 August 2023.

Point 2067 above the Travers Valley

Four participants caught the Wellington–Picton ferry Thursday afternoon. The group initially planned to climb Tapuae-o-Uenuku via the Hodder, but after discussing avalanche risk indicated in the Nelson Lakes advisory, they decided to change course to the Travers Valley to better manage slope hazards through route selection.

The water taxi transported the group to Lakehead Hut Friday morning around 9am. The valley walk proved pleasant despite heavy packs and stiff boots, offering good views of Mt Travers, Mt Hopeless, and Cotterell Peak. The team identified their intended bushbash starting point and reached John Tait Hut by 2:30pm.

Saturday departure occurred at 6am. The bushbash covered 700m through pleasantly open vegetation to 1500m elevation, where snow appeared immediately. After donning crampons and helmets, the group post-holed through softening snow up the basin toward the ridgeline. Spiny rock and exposed sections made ridge travel tricky. The team reached Point 2067 at approximately 1pm and decided to terminate climbing there, recognising that continued travel to Cotterell Peak proper would exceed their 2pm turnaround deadline. The descent proceeded slowly due to soft snow conditions, returning safely to the hut before dinner.

Sunday involved a 25km walk-out to St Arnaud following the water taxi captain’s absence. The exhausted group enjoyed swimming in the lake before returning to Picton.

Emily Shrosbree