Tukino, Mt Ruapehu, Matariki weekend June 2023.
With unseasonably warm temperatures, uncomfortably windless days and a concerning lack of presip us mountainous inclined Wellingtonians were beginning to feel a little wary of this winter and what it had to offer. It was fitting then that our siblings, in cursed winter activity provisioned landscape, the Auckland Section suggested we all congregate at Tukino for a bit of a thrash around on ice and mixed terrain.
With questionable forecasts looming we all made the mission up the dusty Desert Road to the warm embrace of the TASC lodge and the welcoming smile of the TASC master, Don French. Matariki weekend gave us the opportunity for three good alpine days and with plans hatched we all snuggled into our bunks on Thursday night with visions of M6 in our heads.
Unfortunately Friday dawned grim. Undeterred, all parties headed out for a spot of sloshing up some “ice routes”. By 2pm all were back, thoroughly soaked, little achieved (a few routes were climbed in thin conditions), but still happy to be out and about. Beers and whiskey were cracked and an afternoon/evening of exploits, education and sharing commenced.
Saturday brought with it the promise of some good conditions and our offerings of the night before did not go unnoticed as the Maunga provided a day bright and clear (albeit a tad windy). All the chat from the day before had the newbies fizzing for some action and the pros concentrated on sending some tough projects. Ice conditions were not fantastic but some quality climbing was still to be had with parties exploring everything Margarets Leap, Buttons Buttress and the Southern Bluffs had to offer. Tired bodies ambled back into the lodge where the mood in the room took on a tired but highly satisfied vibe.
After two great days some were happy to call it there and make the trek back to their respective homes while a few gung-ho others missions back out for a spot of top-roping in and around Margarets. By midday, and with the weather deteriorating, we had had our fill and filed back to TASC to clean up and ship out. Ready to depart a call came down that someone was injured at Whangaehu Hut and a rescue was promptly organized between members of the meet. A huge shout out to Wellington members Adam Power, Jono Clarke, Brad Aldridge and Matt Lameris for their involvement and efforts in successfully carrying out the rescue.
On the long drive back to Wellington we had time to reflect on a great weekend had by all, 28 members from across the North Island, all together sharing, sending and scheming for the next collective meet. This is definitely something we should do more often.
Massive thanks to Chris Taylor and the Auckland Section for organizing; to Don French for hosting and regaling us with tales; to the rescue teams for jumping to the call without question and to all the participants who made the weekend an absolute winner.
Sam Brown
The Rescue — by Matt Gumbrell
The weather had been “busy” (both wind and precipitation) for the Friday and Saturday of our well-run weekend based from Tukino Alpine Ski Lodge with Don French (climbing and LandSAR legend) as lodge godfather.
When we woke to a Sunday with a still worsening forecast many of us decided the best idea was to pack up and head home — we had enjoyed a big Saturday. As we packed, Don received a call from two climbers up in Whangaehu hut. On their way there the day before, one of them took a tumble on an icy slope but managed to self-arrest before serious injury. She had bruising of her trunk, but worse was a badly sprained ankle that would not bear her weight that morning — let alone allow a safe descent in punishing conditions at 2000m.
After consulting police, Don pulled a few of us together, including climber Alex, a LandSAR police officer, to consider a rescue mission run from the lodge by our team of climbers. Don pointed out “The patient is not seriously injured and they are in a safe hut with food to last two days — we do not have to do this now — there are other options such as having them wait until conditions allow helicopter extraction”. He was concerned at the risk to any rescue teams as conditions were deteriorating.
But it seemed we had the right leadership, skills, equipment and attitudes amongst us, so Alex formed two teams of four. Travelling separately but on the same route the first team was to navigate to Whangaehu hut and have their medic (a vet) assess the injured person. The options were to either achieve an assisted-walk out or to leave more food, gas and battery packs with the couple — for a safer more comfortable wait. The second team would manage the technical aspects of the hoped-for walk out and provide general support.
A stretcher-carry was ruled out as too risky for rescuers (even transporting the solid stretchers available would pose danger due to windage) and to the patient due to hypothermia as the freezing level was forecast to drop during the day.
We guzzled food and coffee at the lodge, arranged gear quickly but carefully, and laid our communication plans before heading out. After a couple of hundred metres of altitude the weather began to make travel increasingly difficult — not helped by having to stick largely to ridges to avoid avalanche danger from windslab or loose wet activity. Progress was steady with careful navigation in the varying visibility. Communication was spot on.
After a couple of hours of uphill slog, the final approach to the hut over a ridge was when the wet westerlies really piled it on. It’s a descent of just 80 metres, but a fixed line was set between a boulder and a snow stake mostly to help the return ascent, particularly of the patient. The wind across that face made it difficult to hold footing on rock and ice. That, and sleet coming at us sideways made us grateful for the line. It was becoming clear that any rescue was going to need to be an all-or-nothing event. Spending any significant time without shelter would have us all at risk of hypothermia despite our gear.
Kelsey and Gordon were overwhelmed at first by the arrival of eight guys wearing full storm alpine layers including goggles and harnesses with lot of metal dangly-bits and electronics. It was a tight squeeze in the hut, but hot drinks and food got us settled as Kelsey’s injuries were checked out. The vet just introduced himself as “the medic” and managed to not ask her about her parasite control or check her registration tag. The ankle injury appeared to be a severe strain without instability or fracture. Pain meds and two layers of strapping, together with Kelsey and Gordon’s enthusiasm to get out of there made the decision that we would attempt an assisted walk-out. The vet confessed to his real job which got just a chuckle from Kelsey. She was prepared to handle the walking pain involved. She knew that if she needed to abandon walking out, it would have to be early-on in the attempt — but would then mean an unknown wait in the hut for later rescue.
Once the decision was made there was no point delaying as we needed to make the most of the remaining light. As expected, the climb up the first ridge was a challenge, with Kelsey using a micro-traxion pulley on the fixed line. Making it to the top of that most difficult section built her confidence. We all began to believe we’d succeed. Much of the remaining travel saw Kelsey short-roped by two climbers and using a walking pole and ice axe. The sight of Kelsey on a leash added to the rescue’s veterinary theme! Alex completed the illusion moving around the group like a sheep-dog, barking orders into the wind. Four team members went ahead of her, kicking steps through the rime to the underlying base to help her avoid rolling her ankle either way. Regular stops in the lee of large rocks gave us opportunities to reassess, eat and get more meds into Kelsey who was in good spirits.
Approximately three hours of travel saw us arrive back at the lodge where police were waiting — glad of the good outcome that avoided the need for other teams. We debriefed over (amazing) hot soup and drinks — all stoked, but none more than Kelsey and Gordon who described the operation as “seamless”. They couldn’t believe that we largely had not known each other before this weekend.
Matt Gumbrell