North Twin, South Twin, and Ellis Basin, February 2023.
Some years ago, my husband and I traversed the Mt. Arthur Range and stayed in the old Loveridge Hut which crested the Loveridge Spur. Once we had found the water (56 perches down the creek on a rusting old sign) and quenched our parched throats, we sat to sip tea looking at the daunting southwest faces of the North and South Twins. I was not a climber then. Little did I know I would return to climb and traverse them some twenty years later.
A local group has established this exciting but safe protected traverse starting with an ascent of the eastern face of the North Twin, a descent off the northwestern face followed by a spicy traverse along the southeastern face between the twins.
The route starts at the back of the Ellis Basin Hut (southern end) crossing the outlet of Ellis Creek on a new aluminium bridge. The route through the bush is marked and passes some large karst holes so please do watch your footing and don’t be tempted to wander off route.
Soon after emerging from the bush, you reach the intersection of the routes (blue for the South Twin and orange for North Twin) where the circuit for the traverse begins. We continued the climb up to the North Twin with lovely scrambling terrain passing through karst country with some rather impressive holes en route.
Route finding off the North Twin was tricky. We used the rope on pre-placed anchors which were not always obvious. From the summit of the North Twin, we belayed down an exposed rock face. There was loose rock in a few places, and we had a party member hit on the knee causing a few moments of considerable concern.
The southeastern face was straightforward traverse scrambling. There is a large cave on this face which could work as a bivvy spot (it is often used by cavers). At the end of the traverse, we climbed a steep final rock step to squeeze through a hole (so do take small packs) and emerged back onto the western side which finished with the final ascent of the South Twin. The last section is an exposed tussock traverse with rather unpleasant sidling. For me, the tussock traverse was the crux of the route (no protection). This then took us to the summit.
Once on the summit of South Twin the descent is essentially an alpine walk down the southeastern ridge to Paddy’s Ridge before a traverse back to the initial two coloured pegs.
The route is generally straightforward (max 10-13 grade) with extremely exposed, but not difficult climbing at times, on mostly stable and firm rock. We climbed in tramping boots. The route has been carefully thought out and when the exposure starts to feel daunting a bolt and an anchor magically appear. There was a fixed wire to negotiate a steep exposed face. A rope, daisy chain and belay device are all necessary. Ellis Hut has no tank, so water is sourced from a nearby creek. Be kind and fill the water vessels before you leave the hut.
We returned to the hut in the dark; not advised as navigation through karst is fraught. A smaller party would be faster.
Nina Sawicki