On the weekend of 19-20 July four hardy souls went ice climbing on the pinnacles… Terrence Handscombe, Andrew McKinlay, Paul McCullagh and Mike Peat thought sitting on cold cramped ledges in the middle of winter sounded like a good time. It’ s worth pointing out for the uninitiated that the actual ice climbing component of going ice climbing is minimal compared to the time spent sitting uncomfortably, stretching impossibly, cursing expletively and digging hopefully (for anchors). The objective was to take a group of enthusiastic climbers of intermediate ability and expose them to the thrills (and hopefully not spills) of multipitch technical ice climbing. The trip clearly sounded so formidable that 5 climbers were forced to withdraw before we left Wellington. The survivors enjoyed a lovely stroll up to the hut on a still and starry Friday night. After an alpine start on Saturday morning good ice conditions were found on the Pink Floyd Buttress. Momentary Lapse of Reason (3 pitches) and Comfortably Numb (2 pitches) were climbed along with several forays up to the skyline of the upper pinnacle ridge by various ridges and gullies before dragging ourselves back to the hut upon nightfall. On Sunday another alpine start was welcomed with grim resignation. The Moonshine Buttress was explored and the first pitch of Chiming Bells was all but climbed before having to back off due to thin unstable ice. A few small waterfalls in the Valley area were top roped before heading home. All in all a successful trip was had with marvellous weather throughout and good company enjoyed. Waterfall ice has not formed well this season but the alpine ice / mixed climbing is pretty good so go and enjoy it while it lasts. Mike
