April 2004 · European Alps

Duggan to the Darrans

During the last week of February Malcolm McGechie, Jeremy Haines and myself headed down to Homer Hut in Fiordland. We spent several days getting down there, visiting the Port Hills, Hanging Rock, and Wanaka during the day and driving at night. Our original plan was to climb the north buttress of Sabre but there was too much snow about so instead we spent a few days cragging at Chasm Crag. This is an excellent climbing location with great views and it is nice and dry in the rain, being situated under a huge overhang. After a couple of days of sun enough snow had melted from Homer Saddle and Moir’s Mate so we went and climbed the Bowen-Allan Corner, an excellent 7 pitch route up to grade 17 in difficulty, on the diamond (western) face of Moir’s Mate. We unfortunately ran out of time to climb Sabre after that, so headed back to Wellington. After several recent trips to the Central Southern Alps it was a nice change to climb on the nice solid rock of the Darran Mountains! Eric Duggan