May 2007 · Mount Cook

A NEW ROUTE TO THE CABLE CAR

Matthew Stevens advised me of the following first ascent by himself and other section members Maria Cassidy, Caroline Duggan, Jeremy Bray and newest member Zeke Bray. Unfortunately he couldn’t provide photographic evidence so it must remain out of the guidebooks for the moment: “Hi Rach, Maria and I had an exciting Easter journey. The first three days were spent in preparation. Friday we moved house renovation rubbish to the end of the path, ably assisted by fellow climber Alan Lowrie. Saturday we loaded the trailer and took over 1000kg of house renovation rubbish to the tip. As an encore, we scraped paint, sanded and repaired our concrete path. Sunday we scraped, sanded and repaired the concrete path some more. The real climbing began on Monday. The team assembled by the main entrance of the Botanical Gardens. Along with Caroline, Jeremy and Zeke, Maria and I took stock and chatted baby buggies. Then we scaled the heights of the Botanical Gardens, taking a moderate angled path (but, I think, new route) to the cable car summit. It was a hot day, but we pushed the pram through and finally gained the ice cream shop. A quick descent past the lawn sculptures had us back at the bottom in time for the afternoon feed. A good time was had by all.” Matthew Stevens DENY THE EFFECTS OF GLOBAL WARMING? Mike Peat and family (Pamela and Thomas aged 7) met up with more talented rockclimbing section members (Yibai, Sarah and Joe) at Whanganui Bay for a relaxing few days climbing and swimming. The highlight of the trip was Thomas confidently announcing one morning that he was going to get us a trout for dinner (even though he had no fishing gear) then actually producing a good sized specimen just before dinner that he had conned a fisherwoman to give up! The family also visited Ruapehu for a couple of days staying overnight at the NZAC Whangaehu hut at Tukino. On Easter Monday they climbed the Cathedral Rocks via the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. The climb took 2hrs from the hut via a circuitous route that avoided snow and ice travel, a good effort for city-chick Pamela and young Thomas climbing in sneakers. There has been a huge amount of glacial recession on this side of the mountain in the last 5 - 10 years. Mike estimates that the snout of the Mangatoetoenui has receded about 200m and the thickness reduced by about 20m which has isolated a large arm of the glacier and has destabilised adjacent rock outcrops and moraine walls. Ski in summer while you still can! Mike Peat AND MORE FROM MIKE…… On March 24th Mike Peat and John Dawkins completed a new route on the North Tower. The route ‘Religiously Unkind’ (17) ascends the wall left of the chimney via a series of corners and ledges. The rock is generally solid and provides pleasing alpine rock climbing. Pitch 1 (16) 40m starts 5m left of the corner below the chimney and has sustained difficulties topping out at a large ledge, pitch 2 (17) 25m continues up the obvious corner then up the wall on the right (crux) via a fist crack. One short blade piton was used (and left in place) but otherwise good trad gear is available, a 5m sling is required for the abseil (30m) down the west flank.