Words and pictures Peter Laurenson With some relief we unlinked from our last four man river fording formation. Now safely on the true left of Ellis River, we knew there was only the gravel of Baton Valley Road between us and a warm shower, dry clothes and a good feed in Nelson. The light drizzle had become persistent rain on the roof of Flanagan’s Hut the evening before. That morning the surging torrent beside the Hut, in the upper reaches of Baton River, had confirmed that we’d better get out before the rivers rose much further. It was day seven of what originally was to be an eight day tops and valleys wilderness route masterminded by Shaun Barnett. Our early exit was just the latest evolution we’d made in the past week to his plan. There isn’t that much of New Zealand’s back country Shaun’s boots haven’t trodden, but his planned eight day route in the Kahurangi National Park would take him to some new territory. The entire route was new for me. Our entry point would be Baton Valley Road, heading over Baton Saddle to Karamea River, then up again over Sandy Peak and the Herbert Range, down and around the base of Mount Kendall to Trevor Carter Hut, up again to Biggs Tops, down to Stone Hut, up and over to Kiwi Saddle, up Mount Patriarch and then along the Arthur Range as far as John Reid Hut, finally exiting via the Wangapeka River Road. Quite a hike. Joining us were two of Shaun’s long time hill buddies Darryn Pegram and Steve Baker. Three of us are very keen photographers. Darryn used to be too but these days he’s happy to leave his camera gear behind. He became our super model, stalked by the paparazzi at every photogenic spot. An initially favourable but deteriorating weather forecast prompted our first evolution to the plan. Shaun figured that, by reversing our route, we could get up onto the tops rapidly to enjoy the first four days of mild weather. By the afternoon of day four rain was expected and, beyond that, well who knows in this climate changing world. With packs over 20kgs, the initial climb up to John Reid Hut and then on to the southern end of the Arthur Range seemed pretty brutal. No pain no gain though and we certainly made a gain. For photographers, our bivvy spot at 1,463m that night, then the one two nights later on Biggs Tops, were visits to heaven. In sodden boots from crossing the Wangapeka River at our midday taxi van drop off point, it took about four hours to reach John Reid Hut at 1,240m. As soon as we entered the forest inquisitive little Robins flitted here and there, coming very close to check us out. During the next week I saw a greater variety and proliferation of native birdlife in one place than ever before. Robins and Weka everywhere. Blue ducks, Fantail, Tui, Bellbird, Kereru, Tomtit, Kea, Kakariki. Normally you need to pause and tune in to hear birdsong in our forests, but not this time – it was constantly all around us. I’m told that Kahurangi National Park is one of the areas longest receiving 1080 drops. Our experience seemed anecdotal proof that it’s working. Up at John Reid Hut a friendly party of local tramping club members were busy refurbishing both inside and out. With them and the weka it was busy, but we only lingered there to have dinner and replenish our water supplies before heading up onto the ridge, part of the Arthur Range, above the Hut. As darkness fell we settled into our tents and bivvy bags to enjoy a moody sunset. Dawn was even better. Parts of our intended route to the west emerged in mauve and pink hues, as the sun approached the horizon on our eastern side. Darryn was first to set off about 8am, me being last to leave as gravity pestered my bowl. Another mandatory bivvy and hut weka emerged to see me off as I set off along an undulating ridge in the direction of Mount Patriarch. I caught the others up where they’d paused to watch a Kea and soak up a superb view of Patriarch. Our route down a spur to Kiwi Saddle Hut was also apparent. Sunrise from our 1,463m campsite on the Arthur Range, spanning Mt Baldy (far left) and the Lookout Range to the east Descending Nugget Knob At the saddle beneath Patriarch Darryn and Steve decided to go directly on to Kiwi Saddle while Shaun and I scampered pack less, up the 340 metres between us and Patriarch’s summit at 1,701m. On top we enjoyed superb 360 degree views and an opportunity to eyeball much of our intended route. We joined the others down at Kiwi Saddle Hut (1,000m) for lunch. The weight of our packs now played on our minds as we prepared to head on up again to a 1,400m saddle beneath Mount Luna. As we made our way up towards the treeline, competing with the birdsong, a more sinister low hum became apparent - wasps. Sadly they were ever present in the Park and we would get to know them more personally in due course. Above the treeline we joined a narrow rocky ridge leading steeply up to a 1,400m point overlooking picturesque Luna Lake, some 200 metres lower down. From there we sidled around the east side of a 1,578m peak to reach the saddle beneath Mount Luna, also at 1,400m. The saddle gave access to the head of Stone Creek, which we followed back down through exceptionally beautiful emerald moss-clad, water fall festooned forest to Stone Hut, back down at 700 metres. It had been a long 10.5 hour day. Shaun, wearing one of those fancy new step meter watch smart devices, reported “We’ve done 33,900 steps today, more than four times the World Health Organisations recommended daily amount.” Be that as it may, according to our schedule, by the end of day two we should have reached Trevor Carter Hut down at 500 metres, requiring another climb over 1,300 metre Biggs Tops to reach. Our schedule was proving to be more ambitious than we’d thought. With deteriorating weather on its way, too ambitious. Time for another evolution! Instead of carrying on beyond Trevor Carter Hut to the Herbert Range, we reluctantly agreed to head east down the Karamea River and, weather permitting, enjoy som
