Sam McCahon writes about how rain didn’t defeat a Section trip to Queenstown, Wanaka and the Darrans Mike Greer and Elliot O’Brien summit Mt Aspiring Photo: Helpful Tourist? As the group trickled into the Jet Star check-in area, we easily identified each other from the bags of climbing gear and massive grins. Psych was building as we headed off for a week of some of New Zealand’s best sport and trad climbing. We landed in Queenstown, grabbed some rental vehicles and shot over the Crown Range to go get our fingers on Wanaka schist. The long summer afternoon let us get a good volume done on the first day, becoming familiar with the local rock. Mellow warm-ups in the sun zoomed by and we soon found ourselves pulling out head-torches to snag one last send and clean the climbs before bed at the Glendhu Bay Campground. Elliot O’Brien descends Mt Aspiring Photo MikeGreer Day two was a bit rainy and opinions differed on which crags would be dry, so people spread out and had different levels of success, though the general trend as the rain set in was that everything was getting a bit desperate. Cheesecake unlocked more energy and people drifted towards Mount Iron, where the overhangs are steep enough to stay dry in most weather. Mt Iron was really fun, a clear shift from the crimpy face-climbing Wanaka’s famous for. The crag provided powerful moves between big holds on some rad juggy features and even the odd crack to jam. Day three saw passing rain which kept increasingly tired climbers on overhangs and roofs to stay on dry rock. Hard climbers climbed hard while the wiser/weaker/more strategic athletes mixed naps into the lunch break, as the rain had broken for hot conditions that made quick work of our precious skin if we pulled hard in the sunshine. After three days of climbing, heavy rain hit Wanaka on Tuesday and gave a welcome excuse to rest and recover before we shifted focus to the Darrans. We were excited to be heading down there and had plans for various trips to fit into whatever weather we got. This trip was to be the first time climbing in the Darrans and/or on granite for many group members and psych was high to get there. Unfortunately while the rain was ‘only’ heavy in Wanaka on the sheltered side of the Main Divide, it was pretty biblical in the area around the Hollyford River and across the Main Divide to Lake Gunn. The road from Te Anau to the Darrans was closed, as the rivers swelled under and over sections of road. Sections of road were entirely washed away, as well as some sections of the Hollyford, as the flood rearranged the riverbed. Rather than think about all the awesome climbing we wouldn’t be doing, people made new plans for all the great climbing that was still available. Stacey Wong and Kieran Liddicoat grabbed another rental vehicle, as they flew in to Queenstown with the intention of only climbing in the Darrans. The group split up, with Jurgen Osterle and Elliot O’Brien doing the Grand Traverse of the Remarkables, Elliot and Mike Greer climbed Mount Aspiring, Sam McCahon Michiko Nakagawa and Jess Thorn climbed Telecom Tower on the Remarkables and Ravages of Time over on Chinaman’s Bluff, and plenty more sport climbing got done in Wanaka. While the flood was devastating for certain regions, the rain didn’t actually last long and climbing conditions were only really rotten for one day that just supported much-needed recovery. From the Remarkables, to Chinamans Bluff, to Wanaka crags, to Mt Aspiring, the group kept hitting good weather and climbing conditions. The odd shower or icy section of rock might not have been perfect, but I know I felt lucky to be out and able to find quality dry rock with roads that were more or less intact. It was great to see climbers doing things right: staying up-to-date with the weather forecast, working around it rather than against it, and spending energy enjoying the outdoors rather than griping about the climbs we didn’t get to do. While our goals in the Darrans were left unticked, we got plenty of good weather, with a great group of people to enjoy Wanaka and Queenstown climbing with. Now we have some great new friends to plan the next Darrans trip - hopefully that road gets fixed soon! Above - Jessica Thorn tops out Indian Summer (18) on Telecom Tower, the Remarkables Photo: Michiko Nakagawa Left - Well chuffed and getting one last cheesecake before home-time Photo: Sam McCahon Bottom left - Paul Clarke on the classic Falcon Steep (22) Photo: Derek Cheng Below - Margot Meuleman in action Photo: Derek Cheng Powered by volunteers We’re always thankful for volunteers and members stepping forward to help the section run smoothly. A lot goes on to keep our club going, virtually all powered by volunteers. On the back page is our “Club on a page” summary. It gives an at a glance description of all the things we do, how and why. Feel free to print a copy and pass it on to anyone who might be interested in becoming a member or volunteer. And if you’d like to learn more about how you could get involved, please email us at wellington@alpineclub.org.nz. Role Name
